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Why low pH shampoos and cowashes are important for curly hair and a comprehensive list of curl friendly options.
We scoured the web and read through chemistry data (MSDS sheets) to find the best curly/wavy shampoos that have a low pH.
The pH is a measure of how acidic or basic something is. The pH of the scalp is 5.5 and the pH of the hair itself is 3.67, meaning they are slightly acidic. Researchers in Brazil published a paper theorizing that the ideal shampoo is close to the pH of the scalp and hair [21] and defined a low-pH product as that with a pH lower than 5.5.
These researchers theorized that shampoos with a higher pH (more alkaline) may increase negative electrical charges in the hair, leading to friction (can cause damage) and every curly haired person's arch-nemesis: frizz.
BUT this is just theoretical, they didn't actually test this theory on hair to see if shampoos with different pH levels had different effects on hair. Lab Muffin actually now has a video on this research where she explains problems with this paper.
On The Beauty Brains podcast, cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski said pH doesn't likely matter all that much because we use shampoos with water, and water has a pH of 7 (considered neutral). So our hair is likely gonna be around 7 unless you're just literally soaking your hair in shampoo without water (which would be bad).
My conclusion is that shampoo pH doesn't matter all that much, a higher pH shampoo isn't going to damage your hair, unless it's higher than neutral pH like soap which has a pH around 8-13 but even that is getting diluted by water.
But I think if you want to try a lower pH shampoo and see if it makes a difference for frizz, it's certainly not going to hurt your hair.
Brands usually do not label the pH on products, so we had to either look up chemical data or contact the manufacturer for most of this this list. If you have a product you'd like to see added, contact us at info@curlsbot.com.
Name | Buy Links | Country | pH | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Matrix A Curl Can Dream Co-Wash | US | ✅ | 3-4 | |
Hairlust Curl Crush™ Co-Wash | EU | ✅ | 4.0-4.5 | |
Tootilab Gentle Shampoo | EU, US | ✅ | 4.5-5.3 | |
Hairlust Curl Crush™ Shampoo | EU | ✅ | 4.5-5.0 | |
Ouidad Curl Shaper Double Duty Weightless Cleansing Conditioner | US | ❌ | 4.5-5.3 | |
Curl Keeper Energizing Shampoo | US | ✅ | 4.5-5.5 | |
Matrix Total Results A Curl Can Dream Shampoo | US | ❌ | 4.5-5.5 | |
Giovanni Smooth As Silk™ Deep Moisture Shampoo | US | ✅ | 4.5-5.5 | |
Curlsmith Essential Moisture Cleanser | EU, US | ✅ | ~5 | |
Ouidad Water Works Clarifying Shampoo | US | ❌ | 5.5 |
Here's our list from lowest to highest pH
This is so far the lowest pH curly/wavy product we could find! This is a conditioning co-wash that uses cationic ingredients like behentrimonium chloride to cleanse the hair.
It also does contain a drying alcohol but it's pretty far down the ingredients list and alcohol is really only a worry in leave-in products and only if they are hair that stays wet.
For high-porosity hair that needs an extremely gentle cleanser
Hairlust from Denmark is one of the few brands that transparently lists pH in their ingredients. This product is a gentle organic cowash that's especially great for high porosity hair.
A gentle low pH organic co-wash
I love that this brand is totally transparent about the pH of their products and lists the pH on their product pages. It has great slip which helps prevent damage during washing and is perfect for if you want to brush through your shampoo.
A gentle low pH shampoo
Another great low pH product from Hairlust, this organic shampoo is better for those of us with low porosity than the co-wash.
Life pro-tip: People with normal porosity often get great results from alternating co-wash and shampoo. And mixed porosity from using shampoo on the roots and co-wash at the ends.
A low pH organic shampoo that provides lightweight moisture
Curlsmith specifically formulates all their products to be a around a pH of 5. They have several shampoo and co-wash options for different hair types and porosities.
For example their Essential Moisture Cleanser utilizes gentle amphoteric cleansers like cocamidopropyl betaine as well as conditioning ingredients to ensure it cleanses without stripping.
This is a co-wash with mild surfactants like behentrimonium chloride, a conditioning cationic surfactant (has a positive charge which helps reduce negative charges) and sodium lauroamphoacetate, an amphoteric (extra gentle) detergent. This is a great option for high-porosity hair.
It contains a small amount of isopropyl alcohol, which is considered a "drying alcohol" by some, but as it is washed out, we do not believe it's a concern.
A gentle low pH cowash
For example their Energizing Shampoo has an excellent blend of both cleansing anionic surfactants like sodium c14-16 olefin sulfonate and gentle amphoteric surfactants like coco-glucoside, so it can clean off dirt and buildup without causing frizz.
This shampoo has sulfates, but also more gentle amphoteric surfactants to balance it out. It's a great choice for low porosity hair.
Giovanni is one of our fav options for really nice products at a really great price. This product has sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, an anionic surfactant, and several gentle amphoteric surfactants for cleansing without frizz.
I think it's handy for anyone to have clarifying shampoos in their arsenal to remove buildup from products and from minerals in tap water. Ouidad Water Works Clarifying shampoo one has sulfates but also has amphoteric surfactants and conditioning ingredients to balance it out. Its low pH means it's less likely to cause frizz than higher pH clarifying shampoos.
Melissa McEwen is the creator of CurlsBot. She is a software developer with training in science writing and chemistry. Her writing has appeared in publications such as NPR and Quartz.
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