If you've ever googled “how to care for curly hair,” tried the tips, and ended up with greasy, stretched-out waves or flat roots, you’re not alone. A lot of hair advice online is curly-centric, and wavy hair often gets treated like a looser version of curls. But that’s only part of the story.

Wavy and curly hair may share some similarities, but they behave very differently, in texture, in how they respond to products, and in how you care for them day to day. In this post, we’ll break down the real differences (backed by science and experience), how to tell what you’re working with, and what that means for your routine.

The Scientific Differences Between Curly and Wavy Hair

While "wavy" and "curly" aren’t scientific terms, there is science behind the differences between straight, curly, and the in-between wavy hair types.

Conditioning Trade-off Curve: As conditioning increases, volume decreases much more for wavy hair than curly hair

One of the main differences on a scientific level is that wavy hair has a weaker curl pattern than curly hair. There's a concept called the Conditioning Trade-off Curve, which explains how curl pattern affects how hair responds to heavy ingredients like conditioners, oils, and butters ^{[1] [2]}.

As hair becomes curlier, it can better tolerate those rich, heavy products without losing volume or looking greasy. Curly hair often needs those ingredients for moisture and definition. Wavy hair, on the other hand, tends to get weighed down more easily. What works beautifully on curls can stretch out waves, leaving them limp, stringy, or oily-looking.

Combing force: On dry hair, curly hair requires MUCH more force to detangle than wavy or straight hair

Another concept is combing force, basically, how much effort it takes to detangle hair. For curly hair, especially when dry, combing force is significantly higher than for straight hair. That’s why it’s generally safer for curlies to detangle while wet, even though wet hair is more fragile.

For wavy hair, it's a bit murkier. Most of the sources I’ve read say wavy hair behaves more like straight hair here , requiring less force. So wavies might have more flexibility: dry detangling could be fine if the force isn’t excessive. This is especially true now that there are gentler tools on the market like the Unbrush and Tangle Teezer, which reduce mechanical damage.

Mathematical visualization of how a wave is a stretched out curl

Finally, let’s talk about shape. Technically, the only hair type with a true wave shape, as in a zig-zag or S-bend along the strand, is kinky/coily hair, most commonly found in people of recent African descent. What we refer to as “wavy hair” is actually just a stretched-out version of the same ringlets seen in curly hair. In the mathematical visualization above you can see how the wavy shape is a stretched out ringlet.

Wavy vs. Curly in Hair Typing Systems

In the most popular hair typing system, wavy hair is classified as 2A, 2B, and 2C, while curly hair falls under 3A, 3B, and 3C. But what those numbers actually mean is a bit more complicated than they seem.

Andre Walker's hair type chart

This system was originally created by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker in the 1990s. His goal was to describe not just how hair looked, but also how it behaved. For wavy hair, the categories were based on strand thickness: fine, medium, or coarse. But for curly hair, strand diameter wasn’t part of the equation. Also, Type 3C didn’t even exist in the original version ^[3].

Here’s how Walker originally defined the types:

• 2A: Wavy, fine hair
• 2B: Wavy, medium-diameter hair
• 2C: Wavy, coarse hair
• 3A: Loose curls
• 3B: Ringlets to corkscrews

Walker noted that wavy hair tends to lie flatter against the scalp, while curly hair stands away from the head.

Wavy Hair vs. Curly Hair: Wavy hair tends to lie flatter against the scalp, while curly hair stands away from the head. These diffeerences are more pronounced when hair is long.

An example of a common hair type chart where you're supposed to compare your hair to illustrations of the different types

Over time, especially online, this system evolved into what I call the "common system", a more visual, informal chart where you compare your own hair to photos. In this version, the 2A–2C range reflects a scale from slightly wavy to strongly wavy, with no reference to strand thickness. It also added 3C, expanding the curly spectrum from loose curls (3A) to tight coils (3C).

The catch? Most people don't have just one curl pattern. Many of us have a mix, waves in some areas, curls in others, and that can change with length, haircut, product use, or even humidity. So while typing systems can be helpful for general guidance, they aren’t the full story.

My own hair which can look VERY curly when short but is obviously wavy when long

Key Differences Between Wavy and Curly Hair

Bringing together insights from both science and popular hair typing systems, wavy hair can be understood as a looser form of curls, one that’s more prone to elongation (being stretched out) than shrinkage (appearing shorter when dry than when wet).

There are a number of distinguishing features between wavy and curly hair:

• Pattern strength: Curly hair typically has a stronger, more defined curl pattern that holds its shape better. Wavy hair is more easily stretched or weighed down by products and buildup.
• Shrinkage vs. elongation: Curly hair shrinks more when it dries, while wavy hair tends to stretch out and elongate.
• Versatility: Wavy hair is generally easier to straighten and often adapts more easily to heat styling.
• Variability: Wavy hair often includes a mix of textures, some sections straighter, some curlier. Curly hair tends to be more uniformly curly, though variations still exist.
• Volume: Wavy hair, especially when long, usually has less root volume compared to curly hair.
• Tangling: Wavy hair is usually less prone to tangling and often easier to detangle.
• Moisture retention: Curly hair is more prone to dryness due to the structure of the curl, which makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the strand.
• Breakage: Curly hair is generally more vulnerable to breakage due to its twists and bends.
• Bounciness: Curly hair tends to be more springy and bouncy, while wavy hair has a looser, more relaxed movement.

However, these characteristics don't exist in a vacuum, factors like density, strand thickness, and porosity can significantly alter how wavy or curly hair behaves.

For example:

• Someone with fine, dense wavy hair might find detangling harder than someone with coarse, low-density curly hair.
• A person with high-porosity wavy hair may experience more dryness than someone with low-porosity curly hair.

In other words, understanding your hair goes beyond just its pattern, it’s a full combination of structure, behavior, and biology.

How to Tell If You Have Wavy or Curly Hair

In general, your hair is probably wavy if:

• It gets weighed down easily, and the more it’s weighed down, the straighter it looks.
• You have some straighter sections, especially near the roots or crown of your head.
• You have a lot of variability and sometimes you wonder if your hair is really curly or not

Still not sure? You can take our hair type quiz to get a more personalized assessment.

Wavy vs. Curly Hair and Products

Wavy and curly hair both benefit from moisture and definition, but they often need very different kinds of products to get there.

• Wavy hair tends to do better with lighter products, those with fewer oils, butters, and heavy conditioning agents like fatty alcohols.
• Curly hair, on the other hand, usually thrives with richer, more emollient products that help lock in moisture and prevent breakage.
• Wavy hair may also benefit more from protein treatments, which can boost bounce and structure.

How Common Ingredients Work Differently For Curly Vs. Wavy Hair

Here’s how wavy vs. curly hair often responds to key ingredients:

• Oils and Butters

  • Curly hair: Can handle heavier oils (like coconut) and butters (like shea) without getting weighed down. These ingredients help with moisture retention and breakage prevention.
  • Wavy hair: Often gets limp or greasy from these same ingredients. Try lighter oils like grapeseed or jojoba or emulsions (oil mixed with water or silicone).

• Protein

  • Wavy hair: Often gets an extra boost in bounce from protein but may be sensitive to buildup from heavier proteins. See our post about protein buildup for more details.
  • Curly hair: May benefit too, but more if high porosity.

• Sulfates

  • Curly hair: Usually more sensitive to dryness, so most curly shampoos are sulfate-free.
  • Wavy hair: May actually benefit from stronger cleansers, including some sulfates, especially for volume and buildup removal.

Product Types: What Works (and What Doesn’t) For Curly Vs. Wavy Hair

Let’s break down some of the most common product categories and how they differ in use for wavy vs. curly hair.

✅ Works Differently For Curly and Wavy Hair

• Cowashes

  • Curly hair: Great for retaining moisture and gently cleansing.
  • Wavy hair: Often not cleansing enough and can leave hair looking greasy or flat. Don't use these.

• Shampoos

  • Curly hair: Needs gentle, often sulfate-free shampoos.
  • Wavy hair: May benefit from regular or volumizing shampoos, even ones with sulfates. Sulfate-free shampoos might require occasional clarifying. See our list of best shampoos for wavy hair for recommendations.

• Clarifying Products

  • Curly hair: Useful occasionally.
  • Wavy hair: More essential as buildup can quickly weigh down waves and kill definition.

• Hard Water Treatments

  • Beneficial for all hair types, but especially for wavies, who are more sensitive to mineral buildup. Learn more about curly hair and hard water.

• Conditioner

  • Curly hair: Typically needs heavier conditioners for moisture and slip.
  • Wavy hair: May find these too heavy. Some wavies skip conditioner or use a light leave-in instead of rinse-out conditioner.

• Deep Conditioners

  • Curly hair: Helps combat dryness typically found in curly hair.
  • Wavy hair: Often too heavy unless hair is very dry or high porosity. You can take our porosity quiz to find out your hair's porosity level.

• Leave-Ins

  • Curly hair: Important for daily moisture and detangling.
  • Wavy hair: Optional and must be lightweight. Spray leave-ins are a good option. Check out our best wavy leave-ins for recommendations.

• Curl Creams

  • Curly hair: A staple for moisture and definition.
  • Wavy hair: Usually too heavy. If used at all, stick to tiny amounts. See our best wavy creams for recommendations.

• Gels and Mousses

  • Both: Great for hold and definition. Many wavy and curly people can use the same ones. See our best wavy gels and best wavy mousses for recommendations.

• Hairspray

  • Curly hair: Often too drying.
  • Wavy hair: Can help add volume and hold.

• Oils vs. Serums

  • Curly hair: May benefit from raw oils.
  • Wavy hair: Should stick to lighter serum emulsions, which combine oils/silicones with water. Look for formulas like Verb Ghost Oil, even if they’re labeled as “oils” you can tell they are emulsions because they contain water.

✅ Shared Products

• Mousse: These are great for providing both volume, hold, and definition
• Gel: This provides the strongest hold and definition
• Light serums (depending on formulation) and spray hair protectants: These can help lock out frizz and protect hair from heat and UV damage.

Brand Notes: Curly vs. Wavy Friendly

Some curly-focused brands just don’t work well for wavy hair, even if labeled "lightweight" or "for low porosity."

Avoid for Wavy Hair:

• Shea Moisture
• Cantu Even their “light” lines are typically too heavy and designed for low-porosity, curly, not wavy hair.

Better for Both Wavy & Curly:

These brands have a wider range and better lightweight options:

• Miche
• Ecoslay
• Kinky Curly (especially Knot Today and Curl Custard)
• Curl Keeper
• Inahsi

Curly Vs. Wavy Shopping Cheat Sheet

Here's a table with whether or not you should look for products labeled "curly" or just go for regular products instead. Of course your needs may vary based on other factors like porosity

Wavy vs. Curly Tools and Techniques

The good news? Wavy and curly hair generally benefit from the same styling tools and techniques. Most methods developed for curls can work on waves too, with just a few exceptions.

Techniques That Work for Both

These popular techniques tend to work well regardless of whether your hair is wavy or curly:

• Diffusing – Speeds up drying time and helps lock in definition and volume.
• Brush styling – Helps shape waves or curls while the hair is wet.
• Plopping – Encourages curl or wave formation while absorbing excess water.
• Squish to condish – Boosts moisture and encourages clumping by squishing in conditioner.

Techniques That Don't Work As Well for Wavy Hair

Out of the 60+ techniques in our techniques dictionary, only a couple are better suited to curlier textures:

• Bowl method – This technique often overconditions wavy hair, leaving it limp and weighed down.
• Net plopping – Tends to deform wave patterns or create odd dents in wavy hair, rather than enhancing them.

What About the Curly Girl Method? Does It Work for Wavy Hair Too?

The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a popular hair care routine introduced by Lorraine Massey in The Curly Girl Handbook ^[4]. It emphasizes avoiding sulfates, silicones, and heat, and encourages methods like cowashing (washing with conditioner instead of shampoo) to preserve moisture.

While CGM has helped many people embrace their natural texture, it doesn't work equally well for everyone, especially for those with wavy hair.

The main issue? Cowashing. Wavy hair tends to get greasy or weighed down more easily than curly hair, so skipping shampoo can lead to limp, oily roots and stretched-out waves. Many people with wavy hair find that they need a more traditional cleanser, even a sulfate shampoo, to keep their hair feeling clean and bouncy.

In short: CGM principles can inspire your routine, but the full method, especially cowashing, often needs to be adjusted for wavy hair.

Refreshing Curly vs. Wavy Hair

When it comes to refreshing your hair on non-wash days, curly hair often holds up better overnight , especially with the help of a bonnet or pineappling (loosely tying hair up to preserve volume). In contrast, wavy hair is more prone to elongation, which can cause waves to stretch out and lose definition by morning.

If you have wavy hair, refreshing may take a bit more effort. You might need to:

• Re-wet your hair and use a diffuser to reactivate your styling products and reshape your wave pattern.
• Or, for a low-effort option, you can brush it out, spritz on a lightweight anti-frizz spray, and wear it as soft, stretched-out waves.

Wavies often have to choose between redefining or embracing the looser look, both are valid approaches depending on your goals for the day.

Wavy Hair Care Routine vs. Curly Hair Routine

At first glance, it might seem like wavy hair has fewer routine options, but that’s usually when you’re only looking at curly-focused products. The reality is, wavy hair often has more flexibility. You can borrow from curly routines or lean into a softer wave pattern using non-curly products.

A great illustration of how routines differ is our piece: “The Worst Curly Hair Routine on the Internet.” (It’s only the worst because it’s for wavy hair, not curly!) If you want to dive deeper into the steps mentioned below, check out our techniques dictionary, it breaks down 60+ techniques in detail.

Sample Routines for Curly vs. Wavy Hair

Here’s a side-by-side look at how routines can differ based on your texture goals:

Curly Hair Cuts vs. Wavy Hair Cuts

Wavy hair often doesn’t benefit from specialty curly cuts in the same way curly hair does. That’s because the shrinkage difference between wet and dry hair, which curly cuts are designed to account for, is usually less dramatic in wavy textures.

My Experience With Curly Cuts

I’ve tried a few well-known cutting methods, and here’s what I found:

• DevaCut: Didn’t work for me.
• Ouidad Cut: Better, but not game-changing.
• Random dry cut: Also a no.

After all that, I’ve come to the conclusion that a well-done regular wet cut works just as well for wavy hair, and honestly, it’s usually cheaper.

Short Waves: A Shrinkage Trap?

Cutting wavy hair short can sometimes bring out curls, but it depends on your pattern’s natural strength. Personally:

• If my hair is very short, it can curl.
• If it’s not quite short enough, it gets stuck in a weird middle zone, too short to form a full wave, but not springy enough to curl. The result? Puffy and just kinda of curved.

When you cut wavy hair at the wrong place you can prevent it from finishing a whole wave and it might just look kind of curved

I’ve found that my hair looks best when it’s either:

• Very short, so it can curl up tightly, or
• Very long, so I get looser spirals and defined waves.

Final Thoughts

Wavy and curly hair exist on a spectrum, but they’re not the same, and treating them the same can backfire. From product choices to refresh routines to how your hair responds to a cut, the differences matter.

At the same time, every head of hair is unique. Porosity, density, strand thickness, and even water quality can change how wavy or curly hair behaves. So think of this guide as a starting point, not a rulebook.

If you’re still not sure where your hair fits or want help building a personalized routine, check out our [quiz] or dive into the [techniques dictionary] to explore more.

If you're looking for specific product recommendations, check out our guides for best wavy shampoos, best wavy creams, best wavy mousses, and best wavy gels.