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This skeptical but practical guide breaks down the pros, cons, and core routines based on The Curly Girl Handbook and real scientific research.
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is one of the most influential (and misunderstood) hair care movements of the 21st century. Originally created by hairstylist Lorraine Massey in the 1990s and popularized through her Curly Girl Handbook, the method revolutionized how people with curly hair approached their routines. With an emphasis on moisture retention, embracing natural texture, and ditching traditional shampoos, CGM promised to help curls thrive in their natural state.
But that was then.
In 2025, the curly hair landscape looks very different. Product technology has advanced, the internet has reshaped CGM into something Massey herself wouldn’t recognize, and consumer expectations have shifted toward personalization and science-backed care. Some still swear by the original method. Others find it limiting, confusing, or even harmful to their scalp health.
In this complete guide, we’ll break down what CGM actually is, based on Massey's original teachings, not just what random blog posts say. We’ll explore its history, how to follow it properly, common myths and mistakes, its evolution into the “Modified CGM,” and whether it still makes sense to follow it today.
Whether you’re brand new to CGM or rethinking your curl routine in 2025, this guide is here to help you make an informed choice about what works for your hair.
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care routine created by Lorraine Massey that focuses on enhancing natural curls by avoiding harsh ingredients (like sulfates and silicones) and using gentle techniques like cowashing, scrunching, and air drying or diffusing. It’s all about moisture, curl definition, and embracing your natural hair texture.
At its core, the Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care philosophy designed to enhance and maintain the natural texture of curly hair. It was first introduced developed by hairstylist Lorraine Massey at her Devachan salons in the 1990s. It spread to the world through Massey's 2001 book The Curly Girl Handbook, which was later revised in 2011. CGM is not just a list of ingredients you can't use, CGM is built around techniques how you treat your hair matters just as much as what you use on it.
Massey’s approach was revolutionary at a time when most advice for curly-haired individuals centered on taming, straightening, or chemically altering their hair. Instead, CGM encouraged people with curly hair to embrace their natural texture and adopt gentler, more nourishing habits that preserve moisture, reduce frizz, and promote healthier, more defined curls.
One of the most refreshing things about the original Curly Girl Method is how simple it is. You don’t need an overflowing shelf of products, just three essentials to get started, as outlined by Lorraine Massey:
A Cowash or Low-Poo: This replaces traditional shampoo. It gently cleanses the scalp without stripping away natural oils. Look for products labeled “low-poo” or “no-poo” as they’re specifically formulated to be mild and moisture-retaining.
A Silicone-Free Conditioner: Used both to moisturize and detangle, this conditioner should be rich and slip-enhancing, but free from silicones, which Massey warned could coat the hair and block moisture.
An Alcohol- and Silicone-Free Gel: This is the key to defining and holding your curl pattern. The right gel will form a temporary cast around the curls, which you scrunch out once dry to reveal soft, defined waves or curls.
That’s it. No leave-ins, curl creams, or extra stylers required in the original method.
For drying, all you need is:
This minimalist routine makes CGM approachable—but as you’ll see, success depends more on how you use these products than how many you use.
When The Curly Girl Handbook was first published, it challenged nearly everything people with curly hair had been taught. At the time, brushing daily, straightening regularly, and using harsh shampoos were the norm, even for curls.
Lorraine Massey’s method flipped the script with a set of unconventional, often strict-seeming guidelines:
No brushing or combing CGM taught that brushing could damage curls and disrupt their natural pattern. Instead, Massey said to detangle gently with your fingers while your hair is saturated in conditioner.
No heat styling or relaxers Massey advised against flat irons, curling wands, blow dryers without a diffuser, and chemical straighteners—all of which can weaken curl structure over time.
No traditional shampoo CGM rejects the use of lather-heavy, sulfate-based shampoos. Instead, it promotes co-washing or low-lather cleansers low poos that cleanse without stripping moisture.
Avoid certain ingredients Specifically:
Products should be water-soluble Massey emphasized that anything used on curly hair should be easily rinsed out with water. This doesn’t mean ingredients must be water-soluble on their own—products can contain oils or other non-water-soluble components as long as the formulation allows them to rinse clean (via emulsifiers, for example). A rough rule of thumb: if the first ingredient isn’t water (or a similar hydrophilic base), it might not be water-soluble.
While the list of “don’ts” helped establish a new standard for curl care, it’s important to remember: CGM isn’t about just ingredients. It’s about re-learning how to care for your hair through better techniques.
If you’re focusing only on banned ingredients and not on mastering the techniques, you’re missing the heart of the method.
While ingredient avoidance often gets the spotlight, the true foundation of the Curly Girl Method is technique. Lorraine Massey emphasized a holistic, hands-on approach to caring for curly hair, centered on preserving moisture, minimizing damage, and encouraging your natural curl pattern to emerge.
These are the core techniques at the heart of CGM:
Scrunching: A signature CGM technique where you gently squeeze sections of hair upward toward the scalp. It’s used both to encourage curl formation and clumping when styling wet hair, and later to break the gel cast once the hair is dry—revealing soft, defined curls underneath (also known as “scrunching out the crunch” or SOTC).
Finger Detangling: Instead of using combs or brushes, CGM encourages using your fingers to detangle while your hair is saturated with conditioner. This helps reduce breakage and preserve curl groupings.
Co-washing: Cleansing the scalp and hair with a conditioner or non-lathering cleanser, using your fingertips to manually lift buildup without stripping moisture.
And while not required, these optional techniques are also recommended in the original handbook:
Root Clipping: Placing clips at the roots while hair dries to add volume and lift at the crown.
Diffusing: Using a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment to gently dry curls without disturbing their shape or creating frizz.
Dry Curl Cuts: Cutting hair while it’s dry and in its natural curl pattern for more accurate shaping—typically done curl-by-curl.
These techniques form the backbone of CGM—and many of them remain useful even if you don’t follow the full method. They're what turn CGM from a set of rules into a practice. You can learn about many of these techniques in our Comprehensive Curl Techniques Dictionary
If you want to follow the Curly Girl Method exactly as Lorraine Massey intended, you only need to master three essential steps. Her most up-to-date instructions are available on her official website: 👉 The Curly Girl Method – Curly World
In summary, here’s the process:
Use a sulfate-free, no-lather cleanser (low-poo) or cowash to gently clean your scalp. This is not a passive rinse—massage your scalp thoroughly with your fingertips to lift buildup and encourage circulation.
Apply a generous amount of silicone-free conditioner and use the squeeze-quench method to glide your fingers through the hair, gently detangling and distributing moisture. Then, scrunch the conditioner into your curls. Don’t rinse it all out, leaving some in helps retain hydration and maintain curl definition.
While hair is still soaking wet, scrunch in an alcohol- and silicone-free water-soluble gel. After applying the gel, scrunch again with a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to remove excess water. Let your hair air-dry or use a diffuser until a firm gel cast forms. Finally, “scrunch out the crunch” (SOTC) to reveal soft, bouncy curls.
Massey also offers curl-specific detailed instructions based her own hair type system. You can find them here:
If you're not sure what your type is in her system, she has a Hair type guide to help you figure it out.
If you're looking for products that fully align with Lorraine Massey’s original Curly Girl Method, there's really only one brand designed specifically for it:
While Devacurl was originally created by Massey and deeply rooted in CGM principles, it diverged from the method after she sold the brand in 2013. Since then, its formulations and marketing have shifted, and it no longer strictly follows CGM standards.
If you're committed to following CGM by the book, Curly World remains the only brand crafted with that mission in mind. Other brands may have compatible products, but they aren’t designed specifically for the method.
Many people try The Curly Girl Method, get frustrated, and give up—not because the method failed, but because they misunderstood or misapplied it.
Here are the most common mistakes that derail CGM routines:
You can't use low-poo or cowash the same as you use shampoo, you need to learn a completely different cleansing method. Because CGM avoids strong detergents, manual cleansing becomes even more important. You need to thoroughly massage your scalp with your fingertips to lift dirt, oils, and buildup. Skipping this step can lead to greasy roots, itchiness, or even scalp issues.
CGM is technique-heavy. If you don’t take the time to learn the core methods—how to cleanse, condition, scrunch, apply gel, and diffuse properly—you’re not really doing CGM. Read the original Curly Girl Handbook or read through Massey's current Curly World website carefully. The revised digital Curly Girl Handbook from 2011 also contains videos.
Many people fall into the trap of hyper-focusing on what’s in their products, checking every label for sulfates or silicones, while completely ignoring how they use those products. CGM is as much about how you care for your hair as what you put on it.
Just because a product is labeled “natural” doesn’t mean it’s CGM-friendly. Oils, butters, and botanical extracts can still cause buildup if they aren’t water-soluble. Without a strong cleanser or proper technique, this buildup can weigh down curls, dull their definition, and damage the scalp.
Hanging onto damaged or split ends can sabotage your results. Damaged hair won’t respond well to styling and can make your curls look limp or frizzy. Regular trims—especially dry cuts tailored for curls—are a key part of the method.
If you’ve spent any time reading about CGM online, chances are you’ve come across a confusing mix of advice. You might be wondering: Where’s the leave-in conditioner? What about sulfate-free shampoo? Or plopping?
Here’s the truth: a lot of what people think is “Curly Girl” actually isn’t—at least not according to Lorraine Massey’s original method.
The following practices and products were not included in The Curly Girl Handbook:
So why are these practices now associated with CGM? Because the method has been heavily adapted and reshaped by the internet—through forums, Facebook groups, Reddit threads, YouTube tutorials, and product marketing.
What many people now call “Curly Girl” is often a hybrid approach, influenced by evolving curl care culture. That’s not necessarily a bad thin, but it’s important to distinguish between Massey’s original method and what has become known as Modified CGM (which we’ll explore in the next section).
As the Curly Girl Method spread online, it began to evolve. Forums, Facebook groups, and YouTube channels helped people experiment with and personalize the routine—often in ways that departed from Lorraine Massey’s original teachings. This evolution gave rise to what’s now commonly referred to as Modified CGM.
It’s worth noting that this version is not officially endorsed by Lorraine Massey. In fact, Massey has expressed frustration that so many internet interpretations are labeled as "CGM" even when they stray far from her original method.
That said, Modified CGM has become the most widely practiced version. The CurlsBot analyzer, was designed around the modified interpretation. For example it says "warning" for water-soluble silicones, because many people using Modified CGM think they are fine.
👉 See our Resources page for online communities and tools aligned with Modified CGM.
Modified CGM typically incorporates tools, products, and practices never mentioned in the original handbook, such as:
Rather than a strict method, Modified CGM functions more like a flexible curly hair routine with ingredient guardrails.
Most routines under the Modified CGM umbrella include:
Since modified CGM is less strict, it can include a massive variety of products and techniques. This is just one example
Like any routine, the Curly Girl Method has its strengths—and its limitations. Whether it works for you depends on your hair type, lifestyle, and personal preferences.
Helps you embrace your natural texture For many, CGM is the first time they've been encouraged to work with their curls rather than fight them.
Moisture-focused care The method emphasizes hydration, which can be a game-changer for dry, damaged, or over-processed curls.
Teaches curl-friendly techniques Learning to scrunch, diffuse, finger-detangle, and use gel correctly can dramatically improve curl definition and reduce frizz.
Reduces mechanical and heat damage By eliminating brushes, hot tools, and harsh shampoos, CGM can help you preserve your hair’s integrity over time.
Minimal product requirements The original method is refreshingly simple with just a cleanser, conditioner, and gel.
May not suit all curl types Wavy hair (especially 2A/2B) can become limp or greasy with CGM's heavy moisture approach. On the other end, many with coily or kinky (Type 4) hair find CGM lacks enough moisture and flexibility in styling products.
Strict ingredient rules limit good products Avoiding all silicones or sulfates means skipping high-quality, science-backed products that might actually work well for your hair.
Can worsen scalp conditions Inadequate cleansing—especially with cowashing—can lead to buildup, itchiness, or flare-ups in people prone to scalp issues like seborrheic dermatitis.
Time-intensive Learning the techniques takes effort, and the full routine (wash days, drying, styling) can be demanding.
The Curly Girl Method can be a great starting point, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution. It works best for those with true curls (Type 3), the time to learn the techniques, and the willingness to experiment within its framework.
For others, especially those with wavy or coily textures, a more flexible or modified approach might deliver better results.
The Curly Girl Method was created with care, passion, and lived experience, but it wasn't built on scientific research. Over time, several of the method’s core claims have come under scrutiny from dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, and hair scientists.
While CGM introduced important techniques and helped many people reconnect with their natural texture, some of its ingredient warnings and DIY advice haven’t held up to science.
CGM treats silicones as a universal villain, claiming they block moisture and suffocate hair. In reality, not all silicones behave the same way:
In short, whether a silicone is "bad" depends on context, not category.
The handbook discourages the use of parabens, citing links to cancer. But extensive research has since shown no credible evidence linking parabens in cosmetics to cancer [2]. Major regulatory agencies around the world still consider them safe in the amounts used in hair products.
Some of the Curly Girl Handbooks DIY treatments, like baking soda scrubs or heavy oil masks, can actually harm hair or scalp:
Just because an ingredient is natural doesn’t mean it’s safe or effective.
You might have heard that leave-in conditioners are the same as regular conditioners, but that's not quite accurate. Regular conditioners aren't designed to be left in and may contain ingredients that could irritate the skin if not rinsed out.
On the Hair Care Science subreddit, cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski explained that products labeled as "rinse-out" shouldn't be used as leave-ins, primarily because certain ingredients are only considered safe at higher concentrations when rinsed off. For instance, Cetrimonium Chloride is limited to 0.25% in leave-in products in the U.S., but can be used at much higher levels in rinse-out formulas. These restrictions are in place due to potential risks like skin and eye irritation
One of the biggest lessons from cosmetic science is this: formulation matters more than individual ingredients.
A shampoo with sulfates might still be gentle if paired with the right moisturizers and pH balance. In fact some non-sulfate detergents like sodium c14-15 olefin sulphate might be more harsh than sulfates [3]. But that's only if you're comparing just plain detergent by itself. Real shampoos are complex mixtures of many different ingredients, and the presence or absence of certain ingredients doesn't tell us all that much [4] [5].
In the context of products like hair spray, hair care scientists generally agree that volatile (aka "drying") alcohols evaporate quickly without causing problems. In other products they are used in such tiny amounts that they are unlikely to cause harm [6] .
While CGM deserves credit for changing the conversation around curls, it’s not a science-based method. I still find the handbook good for learning techniques, but I don't follow some of the other advice on products and ingredients.
The Curly Girl Method is often praised for helping people grow longer, healthier curls, but for some, the experience has been quite the opposite. Over the past several years, concerns have surfaced about hair loss, scalp irritation, and buildup associated with CGM practices—particularly cowashing.
In 2020, a class-action lawsuit was filed against DevaCurl (the brand most closely associated with CGM at the time since it was invented by Lorraine Massey and the Curly Girl Handbook mentions it), after hundreds of people reported hair loss, scalp inflammation, and thinning. The case never went to trial, meaning there was never a detailed investigation, and DevaCurl settled without admitting fault. However, the brand has never recovered its popularity.
As part of the settlement, DevaCurl agreed to provide landing pages for each product with detailed in-depth instructions. While they never admitted anything, it's somewhat of an indication that that improper usage may have contributed to the issues.
One of the core tenets of CGM is avoiding traditional shampoo. But many people substitute cowashing or low-poo cleansers without adjusting their technique. These products rely heavily on manual scrubbing to effectively clean the scalp—something many users don’t realize.
If scalp cleansing is too gentle or inconsistent, it can lead to:
You can read more about it in our post about scalp health and curls.
I experienced this firsthand. While following CGM strictly, I developed seborrheic dermatitis, a flaky, itchy scalp condition, and began noticing hair thinning as well. My scalp felt constantly irritated, and my hair looked limp and lifeless. I wrote a blog post on the relationship between dandruff and other scalp conditions and curly hair methods like CGM.
Switching to a more traditional shampoo helped resolve these issues. I also now use whatever shampoo works best for me, and wash often, and my hair and scalp are both healthier for it.
Can CGM cause hair loss? Not directly, but if done incorrectly, particularly with poor scalp hygiene, it can contribute to scalp problems that may lead to shedding or inflammation.
If you have a sensitive scalp, skin condition, or history of hair loss, cowashing may not be the best option. And even if it is, it’s essential to follow detailed instructions and listen to your scalp. You can read more about this on our post about scalp health
While The Curly Girl Method has been life-changing for many, it can also feel overly restrictive, time-consuming, or even counterproductive depending on your hair type, scalp condition, and lifestyle. Before diving in, it’s worth asking whether CGM truly fits your needs.
Have a Type 3 curl pattern (spiral curls) CGM techniques are often most effective for this hair type, where the method’s balance of moisture, structure, and styling aligns naturally.
Are willing to learn and experiment CGM isn’t a "wash-and-go" routine. It requires time, patience, and practice to master techniques like cowashing, diffusing, and scrunching.
Appreciate structure and rules If you prefer a methodical, guided routine and want to follow a clear playbook, CGM offers a well-defined framework to start with.
Have wavy hair or low-porosity hair Wavy (Type 2) hair can get weighed down by the moisture-heavy approach. Low-porosity hair may struggle with product absorption and buildup. Our article covers the differences between wavy and curly hair and why they matter.
Have scalp conditions or sensitivities If you're prone to seborrheic dermatitis, buildup, or scalp irritation, cowashing might do more harm than good, especially without proper technique. We cover some of the risks in our guide about Curly Girl and dandruff.
Prefer flexibility or minimalism CGM’s product rules and multi-step routines can feel limiting. If you like to mix, match, and simplify, a more personalized approach (like Modified CGM or Intuitive Curl Care) might work better.
CGM is a powerful introduction to curl care, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution. It’s worth exploring if you’re new to curls and want to learn foundational techniques. But don’t feel like you’ve failed if the method doesn’t work for you. Great curl care can take many forms—and the best routine is the one that actually works for your hair.
Technically, yes—anyone can follow the Curly Girl Method. But if you have naturally straight hair, there’s no real benefit to doing so, and it may even work against your hair’s needs.
No curl pattern to enhance CGM is designed to define, moisturize, and protect curls and waves. If your hair doesn’t naturally form texture, the core goals of the method won’t apply.
Wet detangling may be more damaging CGM encourages detangling with conditioner while the hair is wet—this is safer for curls but can be more damaging for straight hair, which typically responds better to dry brushing. You can read our Hair Typing post for more info on the science behind why dry brushing is better for straight hair
Added time and cost with no real payoff The extra steps, specialized products, and time commitment involved in CGM won’t yield results if your hair is already straight.
If you have straight hair, CGM likely isn’t the right method for you. There are better, simpler ways to care for your hair’s specific needs—without the extra effort or risk of damage. CGM is made for curls—and it works best when used on curls.
If you're looking for a systematic method more tailored to straight hair, I'd suggest The Abbey Yung method.
The Curly Girl Method was an important movement in the history of curly hair care. It gave curly-haired people permission to stop fighting their texture, embrace moisture, and adopt techniques that respected the natural curl pattern. For many, it was the first time their hair was treated with intention instead of control.
But like all revolutions, CGM has its limitations. It wasn’t built on scientific consensus, and some of its strict ingredient rules don’t hold up in 2025. The method also doesn’t serve all hair types equally—and when followed rigidly, it can lead to frustration or even damage.
That’s why it’s so important to treat CGM as a foundation, not a rulebook. Learn the techniques. Understand the philosophy. Then adapt it to suit your hair, your scalp, your lifestyle. Curly hair is incredibly personal—and so should your routine be.
Use what works, let go of what doesn’t, and build a routine that serves you.
We rank every The Ordinary product for wavy and curly hair, including shampoos, serums, oils, and conditioners.
Essential oils are not made out of fatty acids. If you've ever worked with them, they look more like water than like oil. Though like "real" oils, they are hydrophobic, so they won't mix easily with water.
The answer may lie in curly hair's unique structure and the ingredients in common curly hair products.